When it comes to the spreading popularity of traditional Japanese confectionery abroad, I feel that amanatto has been somewhat neglected. Admittedly, the idea of sweet ‘natto’ – a dish of fermented soybeans considered by many Westerners to be something of an acquired taste – is rather off-putting, and even without that knowledge, if someone were to ask you whether you’d like some sweetened peas and kidney beans for dessert, you probably wouldn’t be too eager to take them up on the offer. However, despite the slightly misleading name, this treat is not so different from more familiar confections, such as sugar plums or marrons glaces.
Amanatto simply consists of various pulses preserved in granulated sugar. Typical selections often include a mixture of smallish beans and peas but may also contain a few larger beans. I bought my ‘Irodori’ assortment of kidney beans, green peas, black soy beans, broad beans and white ‘hanamame’ from Hakodate Amanatto, but amanatto is available in all supermarkets and most 100 yen shops too.
With its pretty jewel colours and glittering frosting of sugar, this amanatto is sure to set your sweet-tooth tingling. The coarse saccarine coating creates a thin, crunchy shell around the bean, which has a firm and fudgey texture, becoming a little powdery as you chew it, in the case of the kidney beans and hanamame. They are slightly denser than ordinary boiled beans due to some of the moisture being drawn out by the sugar.
The hanamame and kidney beans have no initial smell, but once you bite into a piece there is a light, savoury scent like a butter bean. The refined sweetness of the sugar dominates but the bean flavour comes through gradually, though it is only subtle.
The peas are much moister, and the thin skin houses a minute drop of mushy green puree. Being so tiny, there is a high ratio of sugar to legume, yet the distinctive pea flavour is still detectable. As peas are naturally a little sweet, the vegetable taste is not unpleasant or strange.
The large black beans have the most interesting texture. The degree of moistness varies with each piece but the least dry resemble dates, with thicker and tougher skins than the other beans, which provide a little resistance and chewiness, and moist, almost fruity flesh inside. True to their dark colour they have just a hint of bitterness, so are the least sweet of the selection.
I find the dense, chewy texture of amanatto very moreish yet also satisfyingly filling, and, although sugary, they are not too sickly, thanks to the savoury background notes. The best feature of the Irodori selection was the diversity of textures in the pack; it was a pleasant surprise to come across some moister morsels, as some amanatto consists of only firmer, drier pieces.
Hakodate Amantto sells 100g bags of individual varieties, or you can pick and mix and purchase by the gram, and they even offer tasting selections, so there is something to suit everybody. Well worth a visit.
8/10
The Sweet Japan Blog 
I really wish there were more arielcts like this on the web.