After my disappointment with KitKat Rum Raisin, expectations were low for this novelty bar, the result of a collaboration with reknowned tougarashi (chilli pepper) producer Yawatayaisogorou. While the concept of chocolate and chilli is fairly well established, it is usually only attempted, or at least only pulled off with any degree of success, by chocolatiers capable of ensuring a good, authentic, high-cocoa bar, as sub-par chocolate will simply ruin the pepper and vice versa. However, the adult-oriented bitter bar available in Japan is proof that KitKat is no stranger to grown-up dark chocolate, so I couldn’t help feeling optimistic the more I considered it.
The wrapper designs are more flashy than usual, with bold, stimulating pops of blue and yellow against shiny red and gold, which is especially eye-catching against the black interior of the box that houses them. Already this felt like something special, and I was even more convinced upon opening one.
The scent alone is exciting; earthy and spicy in a way that conjures up images of a Moroccan souk. The ebony-coloured chocolate is aromatic and bitter but with a silky, creamy melt. The excellent rich dark taste is achieved with the inclusion of cocoa mass, cocoa butter and cocoa powder, and reassuringly few artificial ingredients. The crisp wafer center has a peanutty smell, the light toastiness of which offsets the intense chocolate notes perfectly.
As for the all-important chilli: there’s certainly no missing it. Its heat is not the pungent kind that brings a sudden sting to your nose, like wasabi, but a slight burn on the roof of your mouth and in the back of your throat. It takes a few seconds before you get the full sensation and at first it threatens to intensify but fortunately remains at a manageable level, although it does linger after the chocolate taste has faded. I doubt this would really be too hot, even for someone with a fairly delicate palate, however I can see that it could alienate consumers who are used to milder, sweeter bars. For me though, this has to be one of the best chocolate products I’ve ever eaten: KitKat has more than redeemed itself for the rum-rasisin fiasco.
The complex combination of bitterness and spiciness is addictive and yet so immensely satisfying that one bar is easily enough. Sadly I expect that this unique product will have disappeared within the year, in the inevitable turnover of new varieites, but it will be a real shame. Recently I feel I’ve been too generous in handing out scores of eight for products that weren’t so far above average in retrospect, so just to make a clear distinction KitKat Yawataisogorou Ichimi (try saying that five times fast) earns:
9/10
KitKat Yawataisogorou Ichimi (Shinshuu area limited edition) 64kcals per bar
The Sweet Japan Blog 